Friday, July 9, 2010

Yankee Magazine’s Edie Clark Presents “Baked Beans and Fried Clams – How Food Defines a Region”


By Candi Enman
Staff Columnist
ROCHESTER –
Johnny Cakes, Baked Beans, Yankee Pot Roast and Lobster Pie – all classic New England recipes. For many these traditional foods always remind us of “home.”
New Hampshire writer and long time Yankee Magazine columnist, Edie Clark, was the guest speaker at a recent June 28th Day Out program hosted by The Homemakers Health Services. The event, held at the Elks Lodge and free to the public, was made possible by a Humanities To Go! grant from the New Hampshire Humanities Council.
Clark spoke about the food and recipes that are unique to New England. “We have an emotional bond with food and we place ourselves on the planet with our taste buds,” said Clark. She went on to talk about the individuals who pioneered and inspired New England cooking.
Fannie Farmer was born in 1857 in Medford, Mass., the oldest of four daughters. She suffered a stroke at the age of 16, leaving her unable to walk or continue her education. While in her parent’s care at home, she eventually took up cooking.
Years later, walking but with a limp, Fannie enrolled in the Boston Cooking School where she trained until 1889 during the height of the domestic science movement. She became a scholar in the field of cooking and published her most well-known work, “The Boston-Cooking School Cook Book” in 1896.
In the cookbook Farmer explained the scientific chemical processes that occur in food during cooking and helped to standardize the system of measurements used in cooking in our country today. The terms a “pinch,” a “glub,” and “a piece of butter the size of an egg” were replaced with measured levels such as a tablespoonful, a teaspoonful or a cupful. Now simply known as “The Fannie Farmer Cookbook,” it is still popular and available in print over 100 years later.
Originally from Pasadena, Cal., Julia Child came to New England to attend Smith College in Northhampton, Mass. where she graduated in 1934 with a B.A. in History. She was fired from her first job for insubordination.
She married her husband, Paul Child, in 1946 at the end of World War II. Paul was employed by the US State Department and his work brought the couple to Paris in 1948.
In an effort to satisfy Paul’s gourmet palate, Julia enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu Cooking School to learn fine French cooking. And learn she did, eventually publishing her book, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” in 1961.
Julia’s culinary talent, cheery enthusiasm and distinct voice caught the attention of WGBH-TV in Boston and the popular educational program, “The French Chef” was launched in 1963. Child went on to become a national cooking celebrity. The set of “The French Chef” is now on display at The Smithsonian Museum.
Between Farmer and Child was a nature writer by the name of Haydn S. Pearson. Referred to as “the authentic New England countryman,” Pearson was passionate about food and home, which led him to write 13 books about food and nature.
Pearson’s personal collection of recipes was featured in his book, “The Country Flavor Cookbook” that was published in 1956. Consisting of 222 old-time recipes that evoke the warmth of New England kitchens and cooking, Pearson’s message was about using what you had on hand and making it appealing. One of his favorite recipes, for Fried Corn Meal Mush, is today enjoyed as Polenta or Grits. Pearson continued to write, penning four more books about food, nature and home.
“Foods can take us home faster than any jetliner,” said Clark at the close of her presentation. “No matter where we go, the smells and tastes of certain foods can bring us right back to our New England roots.”
Edie Clark has written extensively about New England over the last 30 years and has won awards for her feature stories in ”Yankee Magazine.” Her column, ”Mary’s Farm,” has been a popular feature in ”Yankee” since 1990. A collection of her essays, ”Saturday Beans and Sunday Suppers, Kitchen Stories from Mary’s Farm,” was published last year. A new edition of her memoir, ”The Place He Made,” has just been published. This and her other books are available on www.edieclark.com.
The New Hampshire Humanities Council’s Humanities To Go! programs are offered to connect community members with New Hampshire culture. For more information about the 250 programs and exhibits available to organizations statewide, call the Concord offices at (603) 224-4071 or visit www.nhhc.org.
Photo caption: Edie Clark (Courtesy photo)